Madder (Rubia tinctorum) is a perennial plant that has been used to dye textiles for thousands of years. Used with a mordant of alum, it produces a red color that is mostly used on wool, cotton, silk and leather. The part of the plant that is used to produce the dye is the root which can be harvested when it is two years old. Most dyers wait until the root is three years old.
Evidence of madder’s use as a textile dye has been found in the ancient world in Roman, Greek, Egyptian and Persian sites. Madder dyed cloth has been found in Medieval European sites and Viking sites in Great Britain. Madder was used to dye the red coats of the English army until the introduction of synthetic dyes in the early 20th century.
Madder has been used medicinally for almost as long as it was used as a dye. It was used for a variety of ailments including freckles, jaundice, sciatica and bruises. It is not recommended that any part of the plant be used medicinally because of evidence that it causes cancer in the liver and kidneys. Pregnant women should never take it internally because it can cause birth defects and miscarriages.
Madder is native to the eastern Mediterranean and Central Asia. Not surprisingly, the plant is drought tolerant. It is hardy in zones 5 – 9. The plants grow to 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide. They should be spaced 12 inches apart. It’s a good idea to provide your plants with some kind of support. Without it, they will climb anything nearby using the tiny hooks on their leaves and stems or sprawl across the ground. Plant in full sun and well-drained soil.
The flowers are small and yellow with 5 petals. Bloom time is June through August. The plants will bloom in their second year signaling that the roots can now be harvested. As noted above, most dyers wait until the third year to harvest the roots. The flowers are followed by berries that are initially red, then turn black as they mature and then dry on the plants.
The best time to harvest the roots is in the early fall. They can be up to 3 feet long. After harvest, they can be used fresh or dried for later use.
Madder can be grown from seed. You can direct sow the seed in your garden in the spring after your last frost. Plant it ½ inch deep and keep it evenly moist. Germination should occur within 3 weeks. Thin the seedlings to 12 inches apart.
You can also start your seeds indoors if you prefer. Start them 4 weeks before your last frost. Plant them ½ inch deep. Germination should occur within 3 weeks. You can plant your seedlings outdoors after your last frost spacing them 12 inches apart.